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As an old greybeard Mechanical Engineer
who has spent lots of time working on energy transfer in all
kinds of things, this push for more Voltage had my vote from
the start. Initially, like most, I bought my LOGO 10 with 12
x 2400 cell packs and an 18 cell 40 amp ESC. After the
hovering and Morty Meekle phase was over, I boosted my
voltage to 14 x 2400 cells, but found that the benefits of
the extra power were somewhat offset by the extra weight, so
the overall gain was not what a sports car enthusiast would
look for. I ended up compromising at 13 cells.
Extra voltage, less mass and more stored
energy are the compelling reasons that LiPo's are so
attractive. All that wattage and lower battery mass to
accelerate your 3D is a seductive combination, for sure.
Since Power is the product of Voltage * Current, if you
double the voltage, you halve the current for the same
wattage output, and generate only one quarter of the motor
heat by the process of the resistance-current-squared law.
The not-so-seductive part of the existing LiPo's is the high
unit cost and increased risk of fire for all seasons and
reasons.
Still, I hungered to test my LOGO at the
limits of it's ESC and motor without having to go to the
Lipo Lending Institution. Thus, the search for 18
conventional technology cells that I could stuff into the
LOGO 10 came about, without turning the PVC frame into a
lead sled in the process. I reasoned that if it worked out,
I would have a personal 'hands on' understanding of what
Higher Voltage could do, and then make the intelligent (ahem
?) choice for LiPo's based on actual experience in my
LOGO.
The search ended up with 3 x 6 (18 cells
- the max for the ESC, a Schulze 18.46K ), Type HR-4/5FAUP
at 1950 mah and an internal IR of 5 milliohms, capable of
pulling hi amps also. Best of all, the all-up weight of the
pack is in the 720 gram range, verses 840 grams for a
conventional 14 cell setup. This is a full 120 grams less
than 14 sub C cells, and even 60 grams under the 13 cells I
typically fly! Using the Hacker 13L, it puts the top RPM at
2280 or so, on the 13T, at shaft speeds the little hacker
thrives on. The pack sells for less than a hundred bucks,
which lowers the per crash battery replacement risk to a
reasonable pucker factor.
In building the packs, I ran the return
wire from cell 18 back to the front via the valley in the
centre of the pack, letting the batteries act as the
shielding for the long wire. The pack fits the LOGO 10
perfectly; exactly in the spot you would put a 12 cell (6x2)
sub C pack. I also added the third O-ring to tie down the
pack for the extra power/acceleration loading it would
experience. I also have the CF battery plate
installed.
To further prepare the LOGO 10 for HV, I
installed the new style flybar frame and the improved tail
slider links. Unfortunately, I left the old 2mm tail belt in
place, as it "seemed" OK at the time. Don't do that, unless
you have your finger close to the throttle hold. Get the
newer wide belt, as the load on the tail goes up a lot.
Trust me on that one.
I added an in line plug resistor for the
cooling fan that I can pop in and out to allow both the 13
cell and 18 cells to operate on the same fan. For the
initial flight, I didn't have the cooling fins on the
Hacker, but the fan was operating.
Upon plugging in the pack, the first
thing I noticed was a much snappier spark across the plug.
When fired up, there is no doubt that an unbelievable
surplus grunt resides in that little pack.. I settled on
1800 rpm governed. This set-up (wide open) is capable of
2285 rpm under load, way too high for my liking on that tail
gearing. The power is incredible. There is no noticeable
drop in governed rpm at full climb out, even halfway through
the pack. I've never had such instant response from the LOGO
before: flips in place, transition from hover to fast
forward, rolls, inverted long climbs, anything I throw at
it, and the rpm stays absolutely stable.
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It does run hotter: the Hacker
motor core was in the 150F degree range, and the
ESC was 102F when the flight finished. The pack
temp was 135F. I didn't have the cooling fins on
the Hacker. The flight time is the same as for the
13 cell sub C 2600's. Also, there is no sagging up
to the point where the pack runs out, and then it
collapses very quickly.
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Cooling vents are
mandatory here!
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I've since switched back to my favourite
motor, the Kontronik 600-18 with third party cooling fins.
Typical 3D flying gives a temp of about 135F on the core,
which is fine for the torture it gets. The case is about
85F. The ESC is about 80F. (This is with the fan running,
and OAT in the mid 60's) I am governing at 1750. At the 4:00
mark in the pack, when I give it full collective, there is
no sign of RPM drop and the heli climbs like a scared
banshee. The pack finishes at 6:00 +. And I do mean
finishes!. It drops off a cliff. Only 0.1 AH left to full
discharge as measured on the charger afterwards. If you fly
down to the wire, you'll get lots of auto practice for real.
Nonetheless, the packs are very consistent on time, so leave
yourself 20 seconds or so and you'll be fine.
The packs now have over 40 cycles each,
and are still taking their usual 2000 mah charge. For a
kinder gentler flying, you can squeeze over 7 minutes out of
the pack. There doesn't seem to be a problem running in
governed mode, either for the motor or the ESC combination
I'm using. If you do the same flight profile as the 13 cells
can do, the temps end up similar, perhaps a bit higher
overall. The performance benefit is the weight savings and
the power in reserve to the end of the pack. There is no
sagging until the pack quits. Then there is nothing, as the
Zen Master points out as you auto down..
SUMMARY:
Using KC's Spreadheet for the 4/5ths
verses 5s3p Lipo's here is a comparison on the Kontronik
600-18 and Schulze 18.46K:
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Comparison
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HR4/5AUP
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Lipo 5s3p
(2200)
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Power
Density:
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255w/lb
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Lipo 5s3p
(2200)
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Max
Power:
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1070 watts
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1166 watts
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Max RPM@peak
power:
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2389
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2059
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Flight
time:
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7.6 minutes
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21.4
minutes
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Performance-wise (not duration), the
outputs are strikingly similar. Of course, you get what you
pay for: The LiPo's hang in for much longer. If you're not
going to Lipo's on your LOGO 10 anytime soon, I would
recommend you keep one or two of these packs around just for
fun. If you do, I would also recommend that you add cooling
fins and a fan for the Motor and ESC, especially for the
summer. The only problem I have now is the 24-26-3000 sub C
packs I have seem, well.. soooo pedestrian by
comparison.
Note: I will try to find someone
who will take a short video of the L18 to add to this at a
future time......
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