Outfitting a Mikado LOGO 10 Electric
Heli
Here's a few ideas for folks who are purchasing
new LOGO 10 or looking add a few things to their next parts
order....
Accessories for LOGO 10:
- USA version of LOGO 10 (includes auto hub and thrust bearing
upgrade)
- MIK2712 500 mm GFK ROTOR BLADES LOGO 10
- MIK2322 mixing lever, ball bearing
- MIK2761 tail boom brace
- MIK2385 clamp ring for main rotor shaft
- External BEC
- Futaba GY401/S9253 gyro servo combo
- (3) JR DS368/361 digital servos (good enough for a long
while); JR DS3421 are best
- 6 channel (or more) receiver
- Having 3 flight packs is good - one flying, one charging, and
one cooling
Nice to have stuff:
- MIK970 washout hub ball raced
- MIK2780 vertical fin carbon (helps keep tail rotor out of
dirt, because stock item flexes easily)
- MIK2366 swashplate aluminum (for aggressive aerobatics)
- MIK2371 hex spacers aluminum
- MIK2741 tempered main rotor shaft
- 3-D paddles
Maintenance items:
- MIK2410 one-way hub
- MIK1565 2.5 mm ball links (10)
- MIK1569 2.5 mm angled ball links (10)
Crash repairs (no part numbers listed for upgradable items):
- MIK2760 tail booms
- MIK2495 landing bows (legs)
- main rotor shaft
- rotor head shaft (spindle)
- MIK2361 ball bolts
- MIK2725 main gear
- rotor blades
- MIK2720 mainframe right
- MIK2721 mainframe left
- flybar
- MIK2314 blade grip
- mixing arms
- MIK2450 seesaw
- main & blade grip bearings can get damaged/notchy
Things that you will also need:
- Schulze isl 6-330 charger (RC-Direct sells them) or an Orbit
Microlader charger
- Pitch gauge
- Ball Link driver such as JRP 96085
- Ball Link pliers such as RVO or the better HeliMax
- JRP 960219 ball link sizing tool
- Two 3 mm allen keys to tighten both spindle bolts at the same
time (against each other)
- JRPA215 heavy duty servo arms (if you have JR servos) (2)
packages of 2
- Loctite 242 (blue), 10 ml
- Blade balancer such as the Revolution precision blade balancer
or fancier KSJ unit
- KSJ624 Paddle gauge set or similar
- TriFlow Lube 2 oz (good for T/R slider and swash/mixing base
where they slide on shaft
- "the
Greaser" for re-lubing ball bearings
- Blade holder to support the blades when they are folded back
together over the tail boom, such as the Helimax "30" sized
holder.
- Deep
cycle battery: to power the charger and a means to charge it.
Chargers work off a 12V DC source and not all 12V power supplies
could do the job (i.e. don't try powering it from an auto battery
charger), if you are thinking along those lines. Astro makes a
decent power supply to power their chargers at home. I've had good
luck with the Schummacher "Ship 'N Shore" 10A Automatic deep cycle
battery charger to charge the charging battery. A so-called
leisure battery sold for golf carts or RV's would be a good idea
for a charging battery. I use two 34 AH gel-cell (safety in auto
crash) wheelchair batteries in parallel, but with the larger packs
for the LOGO they don't quite cut it. I try to avoid having a wet
cell battery to roll around inside the van with me should I have
an auto accident:)
- ESV: an Expanded Scale Voltmeter that measures your batteries
under load. It has two inputs and scales - one for the Rx battery
and another for the Tx battery. Very important! heli's suck
receiver batteries dry because of the high loads and constant
operation of the gyro and tail rotor servo. You can get one at any
hobby store and you will need one if you do not use a separate
BEC.
Not so important, but useful:
- Robart or Dubro high point balancer (good for tail rotor and
complete head installed on main shaft)
- A Wiha hex driver set makes life nicer
- scale