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Selecting a good servo to match flying style, budget, and heli can be a source of confusion and stress. Drawing upon my own and others' experience, hopefully this page will be useful. |
An electric heli can generally use smaller servos than its glow counterpart. Any specs listed will be for 4.8V. JR makes some of the best servos for LOGO helis. The first user testimonial is below. |
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Servo |
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Torque |
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Weight |
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Speed |
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Dimensions (inches-W,L,H) |
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BB? |
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Coreless? |
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Digital? |
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LOGO 10 application |
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LOGO 14 application |
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LOGO 20/24 application |
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Comments |
MG, I know that others. including Gary Wright use these, but compare the stats to JR! |
Fits into frame with out enlarging servo bay. 1 plastic gear. 3 pole motor. |
I would not use this servo because spacers are required to lift the servo away from mian shaft |
MG, NO BEARINGS. Perfect fit in LOGO 10 frame. Nice for all but heavy 3D. |
Great servo for LOGO 10. Same case as DS-3421 |
Alloy gear, good for BOTH heli's, best servo for LOGO 10 3D |
Good, economical digital servo |
Again for me, it's the weight of a Futaba that turns me off |
Great coreless servo |
The best for a LOGO 20 - I would like to try them... |
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My experience |
Used with my Voyager, then LOGO 10 |
Currently in my LOGO 10 - very nice! |
Currently in my LOGO 20 |
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Approx. US$ Price: |
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There is a new nylon geared version of
the JR 3421 named the 3421SA. Although I would have
preferred nylon gears with mine, I'm OK with metal gears,
especially since I already bought spares.
NEW!
Based on the comments and survey
results in a discussion
in the LOGOmaniac Forums, I think it's safe to say that only
the metal geared version should be used! Based on comments from several others, I
am changing the HS85BB servo to the HS85MG because of the
tougher metal gears, even though I prefer nylon
gears. Regarding the requirements for servo size
for the LOGO 10: Some micro/mini servos are deeper than
others, and this is a factor in determining suitabilty for
the LOGO 10. The maximum depth below the mounting surface
that a servo can have is ABOUT 18.5 mm before it interferes
with the main shaft and requires spacers. The Hitec HS225BB
is one that is too deep to use without the use of spacers
and I feel that adding more imperfection to the CCPM
geometry is not a good idea. Recently I was investigating
one of the Volz servos to use in the LOGO 10, but gave on
that idea for the same reason. The preferred 120 degree CCPM
setup works best with servos that are 0.5" wide. Wider
servos, such as the JR DS3421 that I now use will work fine
if one positions the servos so that the aileron servo
pushrods are off vertical by the same amount as the elevatar
pushrod (as seen from the side view), whether like "/ \"
(which I use), or "/ /" , or "\ \".
Dana set out to do a
comparison when he upgraded his servos, so I asked him to
write the first user testimonial..... I have about 200 flights on my Logo 10
now, probably more. I dearly love the way the machine
handles, and it has been trouble free all the way with the
JR368 Servos. To put this dissertation in perspective, the
Logo and Piccolo are the only RC things I've ever flown, so
I know nothing about who or what is the best in the servo
game. I just know how the machine behaves in actual
experience. Somewhere well past flight 100, I asked
Glen about servo upgrades for heavier 3D, even tho the 368's
were still like new in their operation. He instantly
recommended the 3421's, which I subsequently purchased and
have in the '10 now. So, in this experiment, we have
everything the same, including the pilot, except for the
servo exchange. On the Plus Side On the Minus Side Summary
The 368's are great servos
starting out on your first Logo 10. They are easy to fit
on your first build, and it will take a lot of flights
before you wish for that extra response speed and torque
when you start to spread your 3D wings for real. There is
no doubt though, that the 3421's will out corner and out
perform the same Logo 10 equipped with the 368's. So in
this case, you do get what you pay for!